Travelling in time

Since it seems like I have many potential readers who don't understand Finnish, I will write in English this time. I'd like to see increase in my page views so you'd better read this or bad things will happen! Anyway here's a few words about Phnom Penh, the mind-blowing capital of Cambodia.

Cambodian tuk-tuks have a nice classic western twist.

When I first arrived at Phnom Penh, it was 11 p.m. and raining. I hopped off the bus after a 14-hour trip and took the first tuk-tuk in my sight. I was too tired to even bargain so we just started to search for my guesthouse which was on Street 23. This was the first time I felt like I've traveled back in time. The whole scene was like an entrance to an old movie - the raincoated driver cruising slowly through dark alleyways with a cigarette between his lips, taking shortcuts and getting lost. Finally a mysterious British old man could tell where the short and narrow Street 23 was and I could finally get some rest.

My original destination was a small village called Pang Na but since I hadn't got any mail from my villager contact I thought I could as well spend time in the city. I decided to educate myself a little. Cambodia faced a massive genocide in the late 1970s during which about a quarter of the population got killed by Khmer Rouge led by communist revolutionary Pol Pot. As the prime minister during the years 1976-1979, Pot executed Cambodian citizens who were threatening his vision of agrarian socialism. These people were just normal citizens who were not members of the rouge and in most of the cases had higher level of education than the average. According to Pot it was "better to kill innocent by mistake than spare the enemy by mistake". Wearing glasses could be a reason to execution and to avoid revenge, not just men but whole families were smashed to death with primitive weapons. Even small babies. Learning about the country's dark history really opens eyes to understand the place. Everyone travelling to Phnom Penh should visit Cheung Ek killing field and Tuol Sleng genocide museum.

This calm stupa yard was once hosting one of the most horrifying massacres of the 20th century.

I'd heard about the chaotic traffic of Phnom Penh but I wasn't prepared for what I saw: road to the killing field was without pavement and full of holes and bumps. No lanes, no rules, no order. It didn't make any sense and all the different vehicles were driving simply where they could on something that looked more like a battle field than a road. I was jumping up and down in my tuk-tuk and hitting my head in the roof. That hurts. Cars, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, bicycles, you name it... All just keeping calm and taking their own path. Luckily the drivers were sounding horns and all the vehicles apparently had brakes. Just outside the centrum the whole city seemed to be a massive construction yard, enjoying the advantages of strong economic growth. I could see tile trucks, hardware stores, storage buildings and construction workers everywhere. The capital city is growing up for sure.

Keep calm and drive.

Who needs new tyres if you can repair the old ones?

As I strolled through the wonderful riverfront boulevard I noticed that a vast majority of the locals were very young. Without a doubt the genocide had affected to the population structure of Cambodia. Phnom Penh doesn't lack men and women in good condition to help the country reaching for better future. These guys would definitely beat you up in wrestling. I felt the time travelling effect again. This society was in a phase where it is recovering after destruction - a huge generation of motivated people in their twenties building up their country. These people are forming the hard-working generation who will blame their grandchildren to be lazy internet addicts in 2060's. Europe have probably been similar after each World War. The city had an old atmosphere and the wibes I got were from 1920's. The only thing missing was a black and white filter in my eyes and a blind piano player in my ears. The design of tuk-tuks reminded me of western movies and there was at least the same amount of prostitutes available as in Deadwood. 

I really missed my longboard there...

Actually it was because of one of the numerous hookers why I met another lone traveller, a guy named Raz from New York, with whom I ended up spending my time chilling at the riverfront. We got approached by the same girl and after a polite decline we decided to have a beer. That's probably the best way to enjoy Phnom Penh, having a few Angkors while watching the river slowly flow by. It's always delighting to meet new people with different backgrounds but similar mindsets. That is one of the things why people should consider travelling alone - you get to know new people and maybe learn or get some fresh ideas from them. It helps to think outside the box and develop new ways to get out of the illusions bordering your mind. After the trip I have a little more visions about the future and ideas of what is possible. After all I think those dreams and possibilities are the fuel that keeps us going. So you'd better keep your fire flaming!

Good times, as in good food once again!